Don't Be Chicken

Dive into Gonda's chicken parm

Lisa Sokolowski

I went on a half-date once, and I call it so because after finishing his laundry (I folded none, merely sat in his building's laundry room, wondering if I could seriously date a guy who owns a Mickey Mouse shirt), we went to a bar and later ordered food from a 24-hour deli in Queens.

The chicken parmesan hero I ate was the best I ever had, making me wonder, "Is it OK to date a guy just for his proximity to chicken parm?"

The answer to that is no, but it is alright to ask for the deli's number.

When I moved to Pennsylvania, one of the hardest parts was leaving the chicken parm. I was bummed, until I dined at Gonda's in Wilkes-Barre.

I can vividly remember the first time I stepped into the bar (there's an aside about an accidental date in there, but I'll spare you), but I can't recall the first time I took a bite of the best chicken parm this side of Little Italy. I do remember the last: It was Tuesday. And then the Tuesday before that. At this rate, I should get some kind of "Get your 10th free" punch card, but I might single-sandwichly put the bar out of business.

It isn't the most aesthetically pleasing meal, with its heaping mozzarella cheese completely devouring the chicken. From first glance, it looks like cheese and bread, like an overstuffed grilled cheese. We promise you: There is chicken and sauce in the incredibly long sandwich.

It's large enough to share - but you won't want to. One bite into the toasted bun and you'll be wondering why you haven't had every meal at Gonda's. Hidden between the bread and an entire block of cheese is the warm, breaded chicken tenderloins, swimming in a sea of sauce.

And this is not your typical pop the top on jarred Ragœ. There are spices in this tomato sauce that take a seriously trained palate to figure out (we know there's rosemary in there, but other than that, we're oblivious). Even without dissecting the hero as a culinary experiment, we know it's incredible.

It's a mere $6.35 after tax, which is cheap enough to add on an alcoholic drink, if that's your vice, or a coffee from Gonda's recently opened Java Joe's, which serves Barney's coffee. If you're unfamiliar, it's like Starbucks for the less corporate conglomerate coffee drinkers.

We recommend water with the chicken parm, though. Then you can saver the taste - not be distracted by beer, bubbles, or brews.