Culinary Milestone

Ski lodge meets dude ranch in Waverly

Alicia Grega-Pikul

Intended to evoke the feel of an Aspen ski lodge more than a Southwestern dude ranch, Waverly's Milestone Ranch actually blends flavors of both through its cozy restaurant/bar and bed and breakfast.

Paying no mind to rumors of an impending nor'easter, we drove up to Waverly late Saturday afternoon along winding country roads, admiring the quaint historic homes and lavish mansions surrounded by vast snowy lawns along the way. Formerly the Four Winds Lodge and before that Winston's, the landmark property has been scrubbed clean of its stuffy "Fox and Hound" decor (bye-bye plaid wallpaper) and has seen its walls basted with deep earthy hues and hung with saddles, steer skulls and cowboy boots. Offering an upscale casual vibe open to denim and bolo ties, the destination opened the first week of September and went on to score three awards in this year's e.c. Readers' Poll, including Best New Restaurant.

The Milestone is notably laid back at 2 p.m., even on a Saturday. Outside, co-owner Ron Ofalt would later inform, a second bar wrapped with tent-like walls is kept a comfortable 65 to 70 degrees with super propane heaters and attracts a nice crowd most evenings.

The career restaurateur brought a decade of experience working behind the scenes at Elk Mountain to his partnership with Tom Hill of State Street Grill fame and personally designed the impressive acid-stained concrete bar, sanded and varnished the barn wood booths constructed in the spirit of horse stables, etc. The ranch's eight rooms, he explained, were still undergoing remodeling with room numbers being switched out for names and work by regional artists sought to compliment the interior design.

With such an impressive atmosphere in which to relax as if on a mini-vacation, we were expecting at least one or two signature dishes that would thematically rise to the occasion and leave us raving. While plenty satisfying and undeniably tasty, neither the restaurant's two-bean and beef chili ($4/$8), its hot wings ($7.95 for 10), nor its Sarsaparilla BBQ Brisket on an onion (really?) roll ($7.95) proved to be that dish. The homemade potato chips served with the sandwiches, on the other hand, are uniquely memorable.

The spicy bean dip served with thin yellow hand-friend tortilla chips ($5.95) was heavy on the tomato and slopped together with an assortment of cheeses and chunks of jalapeno. We ordered the du jour cream of spinach to accompany "marvelous mushroom" and French onion soups on a sampler plate for $5. Lightly creamy, the mushroom soup pulls a rich flavor from its focal ingredient and is worth ordering in a bread bowl. The two salads we sampled - a Cinnamon and Basil-laced Bibb with fresh figs, sliced pears and chunks of brie ($7.95) and the Thai Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce over mixed greens ($7.95) were overwhelmed by their dressings. Served on skewers, the peppery citrus chicken would make a great appetizer. The Sliced Prime Rib on Toasted Garlic Bread with Mushrooms, Onions and Mozzarella Cheese ($9.95) was absent of mushrooms with an impressive quantity of garlic actually laced through the moist beef.

The Milestone Ranch plans to open an outdoor barbecue pit not unlike the popular Kundala's in Hamlin. That fits the bill for the signature dish we had in mind and will no doubt draw crowds to the establishment's expansive grounds. Glancing at the dinner menu, we also noted a couple of dishes more likely to rise to the occasion than the lunch options. Evening offers seven different family-style entrees such as Meatloaf & Gravy, Grilled Ham Steak, and Beef Stew & Dumplings designed to serve a party of four with salads, sides and non-alcoholic drinks included in the $44.95 price. Roasted sweet potatoes, corn on the cob, and baked beans are among the sides. Other intriguing entrees we plan to check out in the future are the Grilled Black Canyon Angus Ribeye ($27.95), and Fried Catfish with Sweet Pepper Jam ($17.95).