Secret Spice

Chicano's doesn't need to advertise its authentic Mexican food

Alicia Grega-Pikul

While swarms of hungry Dickson City shoppers and curious epicureans lined up to dine at newly opened La Tonalteca (a small, Delaware-based chain) last week, those in the know continued to visit their favorite Latino eateries in South Scranton.

Now open for two years on Prospect Avenue at Beech Street, Chicano's Restaurant has never advertised. It hasn't needed to, explained Jorge Rodriguez. Serving everyday Mexican staples and traditional weekend specials out of a modest kitchen annexed to his family's home, the chef has cultivated a diverse clientele of grateful regulars through word of mouth alone. The fact that there's no rent to pay has allowed Chicano's to keep its prices low. Last Friday we ordered enough food to satisfy six people for less than $45.

If you're looking for decorative atmosphere or margaritas that require both hands to lift, you're best off braving the Scranton-Carbondale Highway traffic. For chicken simmered in roasted pumpkin seed sauce, a tall glass of horchata (almond rice milk spiced with cinnamon, etc.), and a handful of tamales ($1.50 each) steaming in corn husks to take home for the weekend, Chicano's is as good as it gets.

There is no such thing as mild at Chicano's. The first testament to its nonchalant authenticity is a ridiculously addictive smoked chili queso sauce served with complimentary hand-made fried corn tortilla chips. If you can't handle the heat, stick to relatively safe menu items like empanadas de pollo (three for $3.75) or bean tostadas (three for $3) without the sauce. Strict gringos can rest assured they'll find bland comfort foods like grilled cheese sandwiches, burgers and fries on the menu. Made-to-order burritos ($5) come bursting at the seams with your choice of pork, chicken, or steak and fillings including sour cream, jalapenos, beans, rice, and cheese.

Pleased with the carne enchilada tacos, empanadas, and burritos we had sampled on a previous visit, we plunged headlong into a few weekend specials.

Served only Friday through Sunday, the beef tripe soup ($6) is a unique delicacy (and reputed hangover cure). Simmered for hours, the tripe couldn't be more tender. The rich chili broth may remind you of a Thai dish, especially if you opt to add the lime, but the onions and cilantro give the soup a taste all its own. Two bean tostadas are served on the side making the meal complete.

In addition to the aforementioned roasted pumpkin seed chicken, which you won't find on the menu, we ordered a plate of the mole pollo special. Both dishes ($7) were served with plenty of creamy pinto beans and seasoned rice and boasted two quality chicken thighs submersed in sauce. Made from scratch with raw pumpkin seeds shipped from out of state, the rich orange sauce has a fascinating texture and deeply satisfying flavor. It was the mole, however, that really knocked our socks off. The mysterious dark brown sauce was as intriguing as any we've sampled. Traditionally made from more than 20 different ingredients including dried chile peppers, ground nuts and seeds, onion and garlic, and spices including cacao, mole recipes vary from family to family as each cook claims to add their own secret ingredients.

Chicano's itself is still somewhat of a secret, but its reputation has steadily expanded and there's a very tasty reason for that. You can expect it to give Best of 2006 Readers' Poll winner and neighbor Don Pancho Villa some spicy competition in this year's contest.