Sound Bites

River Street moves to a jazzed-up, seasonal menu

Gene Padden

The River Street Jazz Cafe in Plains has "the best music, food, and sound in town."

Loudly and proudly, that's how the top of the new menu reads.

That proclamation gets reinforced every Wednesday through Saturday evening, when some of the most touted regional and national acts take to the stage. As patrons mingle at the bar and the bands change over their equipment, the house music fades, and a deep voice booms from the loud speakers.

It's general manager and chef, Tom Moran.

"Don't forget - every Friday - the best lobster dinner in town, sold at cost for $21.95 - only at The Jazz - every Saturday - best steak in town - try a 16-oz. black angus New York Strip for $11.95 - only at The Jazz. -"

It sounds like the wizard behind the curtain is sprawled out on the beach reading the airplanes buzzing by or something, and if you catch him on a good night, he'll even babble on about what exactly is in the recipes.

Moran has never been shy about his cooking. He's been cheffing it up since 1972, when he started at Percy Brown's, which used to sit on the site of Wilkes-Barre Movies 14. After earning a degree in hotel and restaurant management from Luzerne County Community College, he spent several years in San Francisco, before coming back to Mount Airy Lodge.

He then took over as executive chef at Glenmaura Country Club, and from there he moved over to Olives Mediterranean Cafe. To this day he keeps hummus and Baba Ghanoush on the menu.

He's convinced there's no better lobster feature on a local menu. "We broil the tail from beginning to end and braze it with butter as it's done," he said. "And those steaks? That's definitely one of the most quality cuts of beef in town."

Moran also serves a $4 black angus burger every Thursday and a $6.95 open-faced N.Y. Strip every Wednesday. Regular dinner hours at The Jazz are Wednesday through Saturday from 5-10 p.m., with a late-night menu from 10 p.m. to midnight.

The Jazz is one of few places in the region that offers dinner and a show on a nightly basis. Those who come in for dinners are admitted for free to the show, provided it's a $5 ticket or less. Many times, a band will arrive early and sound check during dinner.

"We make those sound checks as quickly and orderly as possible, but usually no one minds because they came there to eat and then see the band anyway," he said.

Moran brought on another chef, Isaiah Gilberston from Glenmaura, to keep up with the demands of the new menu, which he said will change quarterly. Among the famous lobster and steak dishes you'll find stuffed sole, bruschetta chicken, eggplant parmesan, and a selection of burgers, sandwiches, appetizers, and salads.

Many of the dinners are favorites of the many notable performers.

"Tim Reynolds loved the gorgonzola sauce I make, so he'll get that on top of a New York Strip," Moran said. "Leon Russell loves clam sauce, so every time he's here, I have to go shopping for clams. The Recipe loves vodka chicken, and I also have to go shopping for Lotus, because they're vegetarian, and it's the same with George Wesley."

More changes are coming for summer.

"We're going to keep the basics, but I may bring back some favorites like potato pancakes," he said. "We're just happy to really bring back the food and reestablish ourselves as a great casual restaurant where you can see the best bands around."