Savory deli goodness

The Pompei panini at Goldstein’s tastes as good as it sounds

Eric Scicchitano

There are many a sandwich in this great nation that transcends the average art of the deli delight. But if there were ever a sandwich that would make a guy or gal sinfully consider a devilish act to satisfy their hankering for a humdinger of a hero, it’s a Pompei panini from Goldstein’s Deli in Kingston.

My God, even the name is tasty. Say it out loud slowly: Pompei panini.

The goodness at Goldstein’s is hardly a secret. It’s THE place to beat year in and year out in diamond city’s annual Reader’s Poll.

I’m always a sucker for a deli sandwich, and at this Kingston eatery, I generally stick to what I know best: a corned beef or pastrami special on rye. I’ve eyed up a few tasty treats from across the table as friends have noshed on giant cheese steaks, the Hen House Stacker and a piled high selection from their Gut Buster menu section, but I rarely stray from the usual.

But that was until I set my eyes on the Pompei panini, knowing right then and there it would be love at first bite.

Imagine if you will juicy cubic chunks of grilled chicken, razor thin slices of everyone’s favorite cured Italian ham — prosciutto, roasted red peppers, garlic and fresh spinach sautéed together with a melty, gooey coupling of provolone and mozzarella cheeses. That magnificent marriage is then spread between two thin, round pieces of soft, chewy panini bread and grilled with a touch of garlic butter until golden brown and just oh, so toasty on the outside. It’s served with a side of sun-dried tomato tapanade, the one thing I could do without.

Cut in six triangles, the panini eats kind of like a slice of pizza but, with apologies to the old pie, is so much more satisfying.

At first bite the taste of the chicken and prosciutto blend together to give a juicy jostle of the taste buds before the garlic and red peppers stand out themselves. And everything is better with melted cheese. The trick here is that they put in just enough to where the cheese is a compliment and doesn’t smother the entire sandwich.

The crunch is subtle with the grilled bread, but the spinach, too, snaps a bit, providing freshness to the sandwich.

The panini is large and rich enough to be shared by two or boxed and eaten later (heat it in the oven; don’t zap it). And at $7.75, I’d call it a deal if you’re getting two meals out of it. But it’s so honestly, downright, satisfyingly delicious that you truly may not want to share or wait until later to finish it all.

Visit Goldstein’s on Pierce Street and try the Pompei panini yourself. You can also peruse their other menu offerings on their Web site, www.goldsteinsdeli.com, which is also updated with daily specials.