David Falchek, Times Shamrock Writer
Getting to know Napa Valley winery Clos Pegase is as good as a three-credit Classics course.
The winery is a collision of art, modern architecture and classical mythology, thanks to its polymath founders, Jan and Mitsuko Shrem.
The winery namesake, the winged horse Pegasus, is credited in Greek mythology with creation of wine and art, his hooves opening up springs that irrigated vineyards. The wines from those vineyards were drunk by the muses, who were inspired and created art.
The story of Jan and Mitsuko Shrem is itself mythic. Born in the Middle East to Lebanese-Jewish parents, Mr. Shrem sold encyclopedias to put himself through college in the United States. After World War II, he visited Japan which was changing its scientific language from German to English. Seeing an opportunity, Mr. Shrem first sold English encyclopedias in Japan, then technical books and general interest books, and did very well. So well, that he started collecting art and opened a gallery.
He met and fell in love with Japanese artist Mitsuko. Her family opposed their marriage and Mr. Shrem sold the business, which had 2,000 employees and 50 offices by that time. They eloped to Paris where he founded another publishing company. Art caught his fancy in Japan, in France it was wine. In 1980, Mr. Shrem left publishing and studied winemaking in Bordeaux at the age of 50.
"It is a question of passion, not age," he said.
In 1983 he purchased land in the Calistoga region of northern Napa Valley. He hired renowned architect Michael Graves to build the monumental facility. The winery contains an expanding art collection of 1,000 pieces.
"Clos Pegase represents a passion my wife and I have shared for 40 years," he said.
Clos Pegase 2003 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a generous wine with blackberry, licorice, currant and mint smells and rich black cherry and tobacco flavors with a vanilla finish and smacking acidity. Classy, versatile and balanced, this wine would be great with food, or alone. $32. Four and a half stars.
Clos Pegase 2005 Mitsuko Vineyards Chardonnay has apple, clove, butter and whole grapefruit smells, making you think it will have overwhelming flavors. But the smooth, weighty and mouth-filling wine is elegantly Burgundian. Slightly high in alcohol at nearly 15 percent. A special-order wine in Pennsylvania. $27. Four stars.
Deep and intense Clos Pegase 2001 Palisades Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon offers a jammy, candied aroma and mouth-filling overriped raspberry and cocoa flavors. Offbeat and exaggerated, this monster cab is more of an intellectual exercise for cabernet lovers. $39. Three and a half stars.
In a world where many family-owned wine legacies end up being auctioned to the highest bidder, the Shrems have a plan to maintain their vision for Clos Pegas. Nearly all their assets - art, winery, Tokyo real estate - will be transferred to the Jan and Mitsuko Wine and Art Educational Foundation.
"Clos Pegase will survive to be an educational vehicle advancing the notion that wine and art add grace to our lives," Mr. Shrem said.
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