David Falchek, Times Shamrock Writer
Although Meritage wines are based on centuries-old winemaking traditions, the word itself is young - turning 20 this year.
"Meritage" defines a class and type of blended wine modeled after the great wines of Bordeaux. While the term is thrown around like a generic word, "Meritage" is a trademark, the contest-winning combination of "merit" and "heritage."
Producers who use it on their labels pay a small fee to join The Meritage Association, agreeing to abide by winemaking rules. Meritage's forebears wanted to give an identity to classy blends instead of the government-required term "red wine" with its downmarket connotations. The richness and depth of merlot, tannic punch of cabernet sauvignon, aromatics of cabernet franc, and spice of malbec create a style unlike a wine made from just one grape variety.
"This allows us to make choiceswe need tomake the best wine we can and market a product people will recognize," said St. Supéry chief executive Michaela Rodeno, former chairman of the association.
"Meritage" didn't revolutionize wine and elevate consumer knowledge as founders hoped. Blue chip producers such as Robert Mondavi and Joseph Phelps haven't embraced the word, relying instead on their powerful brand names such as Insignia or Isosceles.
Meritage can be either a red or a white. Red Meritage is a blend of at least two historic Bordeaux grapes: cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and a fewother obscure varieties. A white Meritage is usually made from sauvignon blanc and semillon.
Today the word is moderately well-known and carries positive connotations. Many wine shops and restaurants use it as a catch-all for all blended wines.
Raspberry cordial, chocolate, and vanilla flavors mark Rosenblum Cellars 2004 Holbrook Mitchell Trio from Napa Valley. This rich, generous wine was aged for two years in French oak. Textured and velvety in the mouth with blackberry, spice and mint flavors that are almost Port-like in intensity and alcohol. $26.
Cosentino 2006 The Novelist Meritage from Napa Valley is a white, clean with a lemon–lime aroma and slightly grassy edge giving way to a smooth, rich kiwi-and-lemon flavor and mild finish. Special order in Pennsylvania. $17.
St. Supéry 2006 Virtú Meritage, Napa Valley is golden, rich and spunky, with sauvignon blanc's pungency and passionfruit and semillion's roundness and silkiness with flavors of white candy coating, lemon rind and vanilla with a lasting, tart finish. Special order for $ 27.
A surprise success from the Central Coast, Hahn Estates 2005 Meritage starts with ripe blueberry and mesquite smells then flavors of plum, licorice and cinnamon. This wine gets exta points for being a great value. $16.
Kendall Jackson 2003 Meritage, California, perhaps the first mass-produced Meritage, is lean with some blueberry and dried leaf notes. The wine has low tannins with a tart finish. $14.
For more information about Meritage visit:
www.meritage.org.
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